In the Footsteps of Philosophers

From the Jardin, it was a straight shot up a mild hill to the popular Rue Mouffetard,

well-known for its cobbled narrows and delightful collection of shops, cafés, and colorful window displays.  We were on our way to the Pantheon, but the steady flow of Saturday strollers of many nationalities and the fragrant aromas wafting from fromagers and restaurants drew us like iron to a magnet in a sideways detour.  We wandered around, listening to the polyglot murmurings of passers-by, and mentally marking places to which we would return in the future, before turning again in the direction of our destination for the afternoon. 

Prior to arriving at the Pantheon, our peregrinations brought us unexpectedly to the beautiful Eglise St Étienne du Mont, dating back to the year Columbus "discovered" the New World, with its graceful stained glass arches, flying buttresses, and bell tower.  Rounding the corner, we found a wedding in progress and so were unable to enter the sanctuary, but the views of the cathedral and its intricately sculpted facades were a serendipitous pleasure.

The usher did, however allow Annie to take one quick shot through the church doors as the ceremony was getting under way.










Turning around, we beheld the back of the Pantheon, and a few minutes walk brought us around the corner to the expansive court of the edifice.  Watch the short video for our first and quintessentially European tableau of the final resting place of France's most venerated citizens:

Passing through the Portal, Annie looked upward and took this stunning shot of the edifice, a study in perspective and detail that showcases her photographer's eye.

We inaugurated our 6-day museum pass here, walking to the front of the line and entering the monument seamlessly, amazed and made instantly insignificant by the grandeur of the Transcept.

Words cannot begin to encompass the magnificence of the Pantheon: its art, architecture, history, and significance far outstrip my abilities. In the brief hour we spent there, we took 93 pictures, but not even they, with their thousand word equivalencies can begin to convey the impressions and emotions evoked within those walls.  Paris has many monuments, and they all conspire to create the incomparable collective monument that is the city itself.  Our afternoon at the Pantheon solidified my understanding of why this city was our choice for a first toe-dip into the astonishing universe of culture and history that the world offers. From the 93 interior photos we took, here, without words, which really aren't needed anyway, are some that I hope will have an impact.

And in a closing comment on the Pantheon, here's my own tribute to Léon Foucault:

The reason for our limited time here was that we had a dinner planned with one of Annie's friends  who, along with her husband, had flown to Paris for two days expressly to reconnect for the first time since being classmates in the 10th grade.  Facebook scores again!  We also realized that croissants and coffee were all we'd had to eat all day, and we needed to refuel just a bit, or we wouldn't make it back to the flat, much less to our planned dinner.  Not wanting too much, we stopped at one of the tiny sushi bars on Rue Mouffetard for some quick miso soup, sashimi and California roll (island-style pick-me-up), and then trekked back to Rue Linné for some rest, a shower, and a change of clothes for dinner.

We arrived at the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome at the appointed hour, and waited at the lobby.  After a short while, the elevator doors opened, and 44 years melted away as Annie and Tina became schoolmates once more.  With the two husbands in tow, the happy sophomores led the way into the bar for introductions, pink champagne for the ladies, beers for the men, and a happy launch into several hours of catching up, life histories, and a fascinating combination of connections and re-connections.

Tina's husband Dougie has, among other accomplishments, a fine photographic eye, and so we delegated the pictorial documentation to him, and I'll publish some shots in an upcoming post.  Both Tina and Dougie have built careers in managing, performing, and shepherding activities in the music business, and the adventures they've had all over the world provided food for conversation that notably exceeded the appeal of the fare at our chosen dining venue, the oldest café in the world.  Seriously.  There's even a plaque that says so.  Le Procope was originally established in 1686, and has operated continuously ever since.  Renovated in 1988 to 18th century decor, this is a place not to be missed, and it includes, among other treasures, desks owned and used by both Voltaire and Rousseau.  The history that has transpired under that roof fills many volumes, and if you think I'm exaggerating, look it up on Wikipedia.

Our little group may not have broken ground on new philosophical perspectives on the Rights of Men and Women, but we had one hell of a good time swapping stories, and the evening passed all too quickly.  All that was missing was an appearance by Johnny Depp, who was staying with his family in the penthouse of the Park Hyatt, but having recently been in his vicinity on Oahu where he was doing some kind of a pirate gig, we were more enchanted by present company.

Our group parted company regretfully but with a warmth of aloha and anticipation of future re-connections in far-flung places, and we each returned to our respective abodes, Tina and Dougie to rest up for the trip back to Scotland, and we to recover our strength in preparation for Sunday.  Day of rest?  Don't count on it!